Utah Desert Climbing

Castle Valley Desert Tower Climbs

The Castle Valley area outside of Moab, UT along the banks of the mighty Colorado River may have the single highest concentration of five-star desert tower climbs anywhere, including the iconic Castleton Tower, Rectory, & Fisher Towers. Moab and the Castle Valley area lay roughly a 4 hr. drive west from the town of Crested Butte, and all climbing trips to the Utah Desert can be done in a weekend. Overnight camping or lodging accommodations in Moab are required and can be supplied by Irwin Guides. 

Guided Routes – We guide all of the classics including but not limited to: 
  • Castleton Tower: Kor-Ingalls (5.9 III) / North Chimney (5.9 III) 
  • The Rectory: Fine Jade (5.11 III) 
  • Sister Superior: Jah Man (5.10+ III) 
  • Fisher Towers: Ancient Art (5.9 A0 III)


Climbing outside of the town of Moab in the eastern section of Utah offers many opportunities for the rock climber who can appreciate the subtle beauty of climbing amidst the desert landscape. This area offers up incredible climbing on varnished Wingate sandstone and is mostly moderate-to-hard cracks and some thin slabs. The majority of the single-pitch climbing around the Moab area is an excellent mix of trad and sport lines, and offers the ability to belay from your car or with only a very short walk. This ease of access makes the Potash Road and Kane Creek Canyon crags a must-visit for any climber. The relatively low commitment level and high quality of climbs makes these areas an excellent introduction to some of the more committing desert climbs in the region.

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